Front Door Sizes in Australia: Standard Heights, Widths, Thicknesses and How to Measure for an Entry Frame

What's the difference between door, frame and opening sizes?

The door is the leaf you open and close. The frame is the jambs, head and sill that hold it. The opening is the gap in the wall. Each has its own size, and mixing them up is the most common ordering mistake. The door is smallest, the frame sits around it, and the opening is largest.

When a listing says "820mm door", it's talking about the door leaf. The frame around it adds jamb thickness on each side and a head at the top. The opening needs to be bigger again so the frame can be packed, plumbed and squared.

Here's a simple way to keep them straight:

• Door size: the leaf itself, quoted as height x width x thickness.
• Frame size: the outside dimensions of the jambs and head, or the width of the jambs through the wall.
• Opening size: the rough or finished hole the frame sits in.

If you're only swapping a door in a good frame, you care about the door size and the frame's internal rebate. If you're replacing the lot, the opening is what counts. Tell the supplier which one you've measured. It saves a lot of back and forth.

What height should my front door be?

Most homes have a 2040mm high door, while 2340mm and 2400mm doors suit taller ceilings and bigger facades. The right height depends on your ceiling, the existing opening and the look you want. A taller door needs a taller opening, and that often means structural work above it.

The 2040mm door has been the default for decades. It fits most existing openings, so it's the easy swap for a like-for-like replacement.

The 2340mm front door is where things get interesting. Many newer homes are built with higher ceilings, and a standard-height door can look a bit short in a tall facade. A 2340mm door fills the proportion properly and gives you real street appeal. Taller again, 2400mm doors suit very high ceilings and double-height or feature entries.

A few practical points on height:

• Check the head height first. If your frame is 2040mm and you want 2340mm, the lintel above needs to allow for it. That's a builder's call, not a DIY one.
• Look at ceiling height inside, too. A tall door needs room for the frame head and any fanlight above it.
• Consider the floor build-up. Tiles, timber or a new threshold can change your finished floor level and reduce the usable height.
• Match the neighbours, or don't. Heritage streetscapes may call for traditional proportions. A modern build can go bold.

Browse our entrance doors and filter by height to see what's available. Not every design comes in every height, so check the product page.

What width should my front door be?

Single front doors are commonly 820mm, 870mm, 920mm or 1020mm wide. Wide doors start at 1200mm and above, and pivot doors such as the XLR500 are made for that scale. Double doors pair two leaves. Pick the width that suits your opening and how you actually use the entry.

A quick tour of the common choices:

• 820mm: a compact single door. It's very common and suits many existing openings, but it's the tightest for prams, bikes and furniture.
• 870mm: a little more breathing room without a big change to the opening.
• 920mm: our pick for most new single entries. It feels generous without looking oversized.
• 1020mm: a wide single door that makes a clear statement and helps with access.

Wide front doors and oversized entry doors

Wide doors are popular because they change how a home feels as you walk in. They look good and they move large items easily. If you're building new, a wide single leaf is often cheaper and simpler than a double door with a centre mullion.

They're also heavier. Hinges, frame strength and wall support all matter. Ask about hardware that suits the door weight, and make sure the opening can carry it.

Pivot doors

A pivot door turns on a pivot point rather than on side hinges. That lets it carry a bigger, heavier leaf with a clean look. Our XLR500 pivot door is built for that kind of entry. Check its product page for the exact sizes and the clearance it needs to swing.

Double doors

Double doors give you a wide opening with two leaves. They suit larger homes and heritage styles. For a modern feel with a similar footprint, look at our 2-in-1 doors, which combine a door and screen in one unit.

If your design leans traditional, wrought iron might be the answer. Our wrought iron entrance doors have their own size options, so check each product page.

How thick is a front door, and why does it matter?

Entrance doors are generally thicker than internal doors, and thickness has to match your frame rebate, hinges and lock. Always check the thickness on the product page. A door that's too thick won't close in the rebate. One that's too thin leaves gaps and weakens the security.

Internal doors are light because they don't have to cope with weather or security demands. Entrance doors are built stronger, so they're thicker and heavier. Exact thickness varies by material and range, which is why we don't guess here.

Thickness matters for four reasons:

• Frame fit. The rebate in the frame is cut for a particular door thickness.
• Hardware. Locks, handles and hinges are rated for a thickness range. Digital locks can be particularly fussy.
• Performance. Thicker constructions usually help with strength, sound and weather sealing.
• Weight. A thicker, wider door is heavier, so hinges and frame need to match.

Solid and engineered timber, aluminium and composite doors all differ in how they're built. Browse our solid and engineered timber entrance doors or aluminium entrance doors and compare specs side by side.

What sizes do sidelights and fanlights come in?

Sidelights and fanlights are made to suit the opening, so there's no single standard size. They add glass beside or above the door, so the total opening gets wider or taller. Measure the whole opening, door plus lights, and confirm the configuration on the product page.

A sidelight is a narrow glazed panel beside the door. A fanlight (or highlight) sits above. Together they bring light into the hallway and give the entry a more generous look.

When you plan an entry with sidelights, keep these in mind:

• Measure the full opening, not just the door leaf.
• Decide on one or two sidelights. A single sidelight is common, and two give a symmetrical look.
• Think about privacy. Translucent or textured glass lets light in without showing the hallway. Our traditional double glazed translucent door is a good example of a glazed design.
• Check glazing requirements. Glass near doors has to meet safety standards. Your builder or certifier can confirm what applies.
• Keep the fanlight in proportion. A taller door plus a fanlight may need a higher opening.

Designs such as the HAG11, H1I and XV14 give you a starting point for different glazing styles. Check each product page for the sizes and frame options that go with them.

How do I measure for a front door?

Measure the existing frame or opening in three places across the width and three up the height, then use the smallest figures. Measure jamb depth, note the swing and hinge side, and check the opening is square. Write everything down, take photos, and confirm the measurements with your supplier.

Here's the checklist we'd follow if you were standing in your hallway:

1. Decide what you're measuring. Is it the door leaf, the existing frame or the rough opening? Write that at the top of your notes.
2. Measure the width three times. Take the top, middle and bottom. Frames are rarely perfect, so use the smallest.
3. Measure the height three times. Take the left, centre and right, from the finished floor to the underside of the head. Use the smallest.
4. Allow for the floor. If you're about to lay tiles or timber, measure to the new finished level.
5. Check for square. Measure both diagonals. If they differ noticeably, the opening is out of square and your installer should know.
6. Measure the jamb depth. This is the width of the frame through the wall. Brick, timber frame and rendered walls all vary.
7. Note the swing and hinge side. Stand outside and look at which side the hinges are on, and whether the door opens in or out.
8. Look at the threshold. Note the sill type and any step down, particularly if you need step-free access.
9. Measure around the opening. Check for the room to swing the door, and for light switches, walls or planters in the way.
10. Take photos. Wide shots and close-ups of hinges, lock and the sill help us help you.

If you're building new, work from the frame specification rather than a plan dimension. Plans show intent. A frame in the wall shows reality.

Want to see how a door suits your house before you commit? Our DoorVision visualiser lets you view a door on your own home, from the comfort of your own home. It's a quick way to check proportions, colour and style before you order.

Still unsure? Contact us with your measurements and photos and we'll sense-check them.

Should I replace just the door or the whole entry frame?

Replace only the door if your frame is square, sound and the right size for the new leaf. Replace the whole entry frame if it's rotted, twisted, the wrong size, or you're changing the opening. A complete door system, with door and frame together, takes the guesswork out.

A door-only swap works well when:

• The frame is solid, with no rot, termite damage or movement.
• The new door matches the old one's size and thickness.
• The rebate and hardware preparation suit the new door.
• You're happy with the existing sill and weather seals.

A full frame replacement makes sense when:

• The frame is damaged or out of square.
• You're going wider, taller or adding sidelights or a fanlight.
• You want a better seal and threshold.
• You're building new or renovating the facade.

Our door systems bring the door and frame together, so the parts are made to work together from the start. For entry frame sizes, jamb width and the opening you'll need, check each product page.

If you'd like a pro to handle it, we have a preferred installer network in Sydney, Wollongong, Melbourne, the Central Coast and the Gold Coast. See our professional door installation in Sydney Metro page for more.

What about accessibility and clearance widths?

Accessibility is about the clear opening width, which is smaller than the door leaf because the door, hinges and frame take up space. Requirements depend on your project and the standards that apply to it. Check with your building certifier before you choose a width.

A wider leaf generally gives a wider clear opening. That's one reason many people choose 920mm or 1020mm for a front door.

The National Construction Code (NCC) and the Livable Housing Design Standard both address entry design in different ways. Which provisions apply depends on the type of building, the state or territory, and whether you're building new or renovating. We're not certifiers, so we won't tell you what your project must meet.

Some general tips:

• Think about the whole path. A wide door doesn't help if there's a step at the threshold.
• Look at the space either side. You need room to approach and turn.
• Choose hardware carefully. Handles and locks that are easy to use matter as much as the width.
• Ask early. Bring your certifier in before you order, not after.

Buying advice for builders and trade

For trade jobs, measure on site, confirm the handing and swing, and quote the right dimension (door, frame or opening) on every order. Check each product page for sizes. Ask us if anything is unclear. A short call before ordering is cheaper than a return.

Here's how we'd run an order if we were on your site:

• Measure from the frame in the wall, not the drawings.
• Confirm door, frame and opening sizes in writing with the client.
• Check hardware and thickness compatibility, especially with digital locks.
• Confirm the BAL rating if the site is bushfire-prone. Our range includes bushfire-rated entrance doors from BAL 19 to BAL 40.
• Don't alter a rated door on site. Trimming can affect compliance.
• Plan the install. Book your installer or ours before the door arrives.

We run trade accounts for builders and installers, and we deliver Australia-wide. We've also moved away from timber pallets. Doors travel on LiteCorp HexPack honeycomb cardboard, which bears 3 tonnes and can be cut up and put in the recycling bin once your doors arrive. There's no pallet to take to the tip.

We closed our showroom to go fully online, and that's why photos matter to us. Good imagery and tools like DoorVision help your client decide, so you spend less time on approvals and more time on site.

Size gets it to fit. The sun decides if it lasts.

Measuring gets a door into the opening, but exposure decides how long it stays good-looking. We always ask about sun, shelter and orientation before we talk size. A perfect fit in the wrong material still fails.

Here's a situation we've seen first-hand. A customer moved into a brand new home in the Sydney area, and within a short time the front door began bowing and cracking. The entry had full sun all day and barely any overhead protection, and the builder had fitted a cheap timber door.

They rang us for another timber replacement. Mark, who's a Parkwood Specialist, asked a few questions about the site and recommended aluminium instead. It suited the sun exposure, and it comes with a 10 year warranty. He quoted the job and arranged a local installer experienced with Parkwood aluminium doors.

The customer was happy with the personal service and loves the door. They came back to order another one for the back door.

The lesson is simple. Size is a fit question, and material is a performance question. If your entry faces west or sits out in the open, think about both. Our view is that a size guide should always come with a question about where the door lives.

FAQs

Is 820mm a standard front door width?

Yes, 820mm is a very common single door width, but it isn't the only one. 870mm, 920mm and 1020mm are also common. Many people choose a wider door for a more comfortable entry. Check the product page for what's available in each range.

Can a front door be cut down to fit?

Sometimes, but only by a small amount. Solid and engineered timber doors can often be trimmed slightly, but it can affect the warranty and the door's balance. Aluminium and composite doors generally can't be cut. Bushfire-rated doors shouldn't be altered, as it can affect compliance. Measure first and order the right size.

What if my opening is non-standard?

You have three options. You can choose a door and frame made to suit, modify the opening with a builder, or use sidelights or a fanlight to fill the extra space. Measure the opening carefully and send us the measurements and photos. We'll help you find the closest fit.

Do I need a new frame when I replace my front door?

Not always. If your existing frame is square, sound and matches the new door's size and thickness, you can often replace the door only. If the frame is damaged, the wrong size or you're changing the opening, replace the frame as well. A door system supplies both together.

What is the widest front door available?

It depends on the range. Wide and pivot doors, such as the XLR500, go well beyond standard single widths. Double doors and doors with sidelights create even wider entries. Check each product page for exact sizes, and contact us if you want something specific.

Does a 2-in-1 door change the size?

A 2-in-1 door is designed to suit the same kind of opening as a standard entrance door. But the door and screen come as one unit, so check the product page for the frame dimensions and swing clearance. Measure your opening as usual and confirm with us.

How do I measure for a front door?

Measure the width in three places and the height in three places, then use the smallest figures. Add the jamb depth, check for square and note the swing and hinge side. Our measuring checklist above walks you through each step.

Need a hand choosing the right size?

Send us your measurements and photos and we'll help you order with confidence. Contact the Complete Doors Online team and we'll guide you from measuring to delivery.