Double Front Doors, Sidelights and Fanlights: How to Plan a Wider, Brighter Entrance for Your Australian Home

How do you measure the full opening for a double front door?

Measure the structural opening, not just the old door. Record the width at the top, middle and bottom, the height on both sides, the wall depth and the sill condition. Take the smallest reading in each direction. Then check it against the combination you want, whether that's doors, sidelights or a fanlight.

We've already covered standard sizes and measuring step by step in our sizes guide, so we won't repeat it here. What matters for this article is the thinking behind the numbers.

A wide opening gives you choices. A narrow one might rule out double doors altogether. Before you fall in love with a style, work out which of these your opening can take:

• One door plus one or two sidelights if the opening is wide but not wide enough for two full leaves.
• Double doors if the opening comfortably fits two leaves plus frame.
• A fanlight if you have the head height, which is common in older homes with high ceilings.
• A combination, such as double doors with a fanlight above.

Measure twice and check that the floor is level. Old porches settle, and a sill that slopes will cause problems with any wide door.

Should you add sidelights to your front door?

Sidelights are the easiest way to make a front entry feel wider and brighter without a second door leaf. They are fixed glass panels either side of the door, set in the same frame. They suit most home styles, and the glass choice controls how much privacy you give up.

A front door with sidelights does a few jobs at once. It lets daylight into a hallway, it fills a wide porch opening properly and it gives the entry a more finished look from the street.

If you're after an entrance door and sidelight package, look at pairings where the door and glass panels are designed together. Browse the bi-folds, side panels and sidelights collection for panels, or see the Colonial 3P SLI and Colonial 2P SLI for examples of a door and sidelight combination.

Choosing glass and privacy

Clear glass gives the most light but the least privacy. Frosted, reeded, obscure and patterned options soften the view in while still passing light. Think about what you can see through the sidelight from the street. A sidelight that lines up with a hallway mirror or a bedroom door is worth a second look.

A few practical checks:

• Stand outside at night with the hall light on and see what's visible.
• Check where your lockset sits relative to the glass. A lock within easy reach of a clear panel is a security weak spot.
• Pick glass that suits your climate. West-facing entries can get hot, so ask about glass performance and shading.

Matching sidelights to the door

Match the frame colour, the finish and the glass pattern to the door. Mismatched sidelights are the quickest way to make an entry look like an afterthought. If the door has glazing, echo that glazing pattern in the panels. If the door is solid, pick a simple glass pattern so the panels don't compete.

For a deeper look at door styles to pair with glazing, browse the full entrance doors range.

Is a fanlight above a front door worth it?

A fanlight above a front door is worth it when you have the height and want light without losing privacy. The glass sits above eye level, so strangers can't see in, but daylight still reaches the hallway. It suits tall and heritage entries, where it also keeps the original proportions.

Fanlights are a classic feature of Victorian, Federation and many Edwardian homes. They were designed for high ceilings and long dark hallways, and they still do that job well.

For a heritage renovation, a fanlight can be the detail that makes a new door look like it belongs. Rectangular transoms, arched heads and decorative leadlight patterns all work, depending on the era of the house.

Things to plan for:

• Head height. You need enough height above the door for the fanlight and the frame. Measure to the underside of the lintel or beam.
• Frame design. A fanlight needs a transom bar between the door and the glass, so the frame is taller and more complex than a standard one.
• Glass. Fixed glass is simplest. Opening fanlights need hardware and add complexity.
• Combinations. A fanlight above a door with sidelights is a classic pairing. It also creates the most framing work, so involve your installer early.

Check our entrance solutions collection for frame and entry options that can suit more complex openings.

What do you need to know about double front doors?

Double front doors use two leaves in one frame. One leaf is active and opens daily. The other is passive and stays fixed with bolts until you need the full width. You also need to plan the meeting seal, the bolts, the swing direction and the locking.

Double entry doors are the obvious answer to a wide porch. They give a symmetrical, welcoming look and let you move furniture in without fuss. They also bring more detail to get right.

Active and passive leaf

The active leaf carries the lockset and handles every day. The passive leaf is held shut by flush bolts, one at the top and one at the bottom, and opens only when you need a wide gap. If you're deciding which leaf should be active, think about the approach to the porch and which side feels natural when you walk in with shopping.

Some people want both leaves usable daily. That's possible, but the hardware, the meeting stile and the seal all need to suit it.

Astragal and meeting stile

The astragal is the strip or profile where the two leaves meet. It closes the gap, helps block draughts, dust and weather, and gives the lock something to engage with. On an exposed porch, a poor meeting seal is where wind and rain find their way in. Ask about the astragal design before you order.

Bolts, locks and security

Flush bolts keep the passive leaf fixed. A deadlock or multipoint lock on the active leaf adds security. Good hinges matter too, because two heavy leaves put real load on the frame. Choose quality hardware, and have it fitted properly.

Swing direction

Most front doors swing inward, but check the space. Two leaves open wide into a hallway, and you need room for them and for any furniture, mats or stair landings. An outswing door can suit a shallow hall but needs cover and the right hinge design on exposed porches. Decide this before you order, since it changes the frame and hardware.

See our door systems collection for frame and door combinations that suit wider openings.

What about a pivot front door or a wide front door?

A pivot front door turns on pins set into the floor and head, rather than on side hinges. It suits very wide or tall leaves and gives a strong architectural look. It needs solid structure around it and works best under a covered entry, since sealing is harder than on a standard hinged door.

A wide front door, whether pivot or hinged, is a single large leaf that fills a generous opening. It makes a statement without the centre join of a double door.

The trade-offs are worth knowing:

• Weight. A big leaf is heavy. The frame, the floor and the hardware need to carry it.
• Sealing. Pivot doors often have a larger gap around the leaf. That's fine under a deep porch and a problem on an exposed one.
• Fit-out. Pivot hardware needs accurate set-out. This isn't a job for guesswork.
• Style. Pivot suits modern builds. On a heritage facade it can look out of place.

If you're drawn to this look, browse our entrance doors range and talk to us about which wide and pivot options suit your opening.

Frames and sills: how do you weatherproof an exposed porch?

On an exposed porch, weatherproofing comes down to four things: a frame matched to the door, a sill that sheds water, seals that compress evenly and enough overhead cover. A good door in a poor frame will leak, swell or stick. Plan the frame as carefully as the door.

Most front porch doors fail at the edges, not in the middle of the leaf. Water sits on a flat sill, seals age, and sun and rain hit the same spot every day.

Check these before you buy:

• Sill design. Look for a sill that slopes away from the door and has a drip or weather bar. Flat sills hold water.
• Seals. Compression seals around the head and jambs, and a good bottom seal, keep out wind and dust.
• Frame material. Match it to the exposure. Aluminium and engineered or treated timber each have strengths. Ask us if you're unsure.
• Overhead cover. A deep porch roof protects every part of the entry. A bare wall with a door in full sun and rain is a very different job.
• Installation. Flashing, packing and levelling make or break the result.

The NCC sets requirements for weatherproofing and building elements, so check with your builder or certifier. You'll also find practical guidance on glazing and orientation at YourHome.gov.au.

If your entry copes with western sun, our aluminium entrance doors are worth a look. For timber lovers, the solid and engineered timber entrance range has plenty of choice.

Which hardware works best on double doors?

Choose hardware that suits two heavy leaves: quality hinges, flush bolts on the passive leaf, a deadlock or multipoint lock on the active leaf and a handle you can grip easily. Pull handles suit wide doors well. Keep the style consistent across both leaves, even if only one has a lockset.

With double front doors, hardware does more than finish the look. It carries the load and keeps the passive leaf secure.

A few tips:

• Pull handles. Long pull handles suit wide, modern doors and can be mirrored on both leaves for symmetry. See our entrance pull handles.
• Locksets. Make sure the lock suits the meeting stile. Not every lock fits every door profile.
• Hinges. Use enough hinges, and the right type, for the leaf weight.
• Finish. Match handle, hinge and lock finishes. Stainless, black, bronze and brass all have their place, but mixed finishes look accidental.
• Digital locks. A smart lock can be a good fit on the active leaf, but check it suits the door thickness and the stile width.

Can you add a screen to a double front door?

Yes. A 2-in-1 door combines a front door and a screen in one package, so you get fresh air and security without a separate screen door. For double doors, check whether the screen suits the active leaf only or both, and how it affects swing and sealing.

Australian homes are built for breezes, and a front door that opens to a screen is a very practical feature. A 2-in-1 setup means the door and screen are designed to work together, which usually looks cleaner than adding a screen later.

What to check:

• Which leaf takes the screen. In most doubles, it's the active leaf.
• Clearances. The screen needs room to swing without hitting handles or porch furniture.
• Pets and kids. A mesh or security screen keeps both safe while the door is open.
• Style. Make sure the screen frame suits the door and the house.

Explore the 2-in-1 doors collection to see what's available.

Safety glazing and bushfire zones: what should you check?

Glass in and around doors is usually covered by safety glazing rules. AS 1288 deals with glass in buildings, and it generally applies to doors, sidelights and low panels. Bushfire zones add more requirements. Always confirm the rules for your site with a certifier before you order.

Sidelights and fanlights are glass, and glass near doors is a safety issue. We can't tell you what applies to your home, because that depends on the location of the glass, its size and your local requirements. AS 1288 is the standard, and the NCC references it. Your building certifier can confirm what you need.

If you're in a bushfire-prone area, the picture changes again. Bushfire Attack Level (BAL) ratings affect the frame, glass and hardware you can use, and a sidelight or fanlight can be a weak point if it isn't rated. Our entrance range includes bushfire-rated options across several BAL levels. Check your BAL rating first, then choose a door, frame and glazing that match it. Don't assume a standard sidelight meets the same requirements as the door.

Why does your porch matter more than your door style?

In our experience, the porch decides how long a front door lasts, and most buyers choose style first and exposure second. That's backwards. Before you pick a door, look at how much sun and rain the entry actually gets, and choose the material for that.

Here's a situation we've seen first-hand. A customer in the Sydney area moved into a brand new home, and within a short time their timber front door started bowing and cracking. The house got full sun all day and had barely any overhead protection. The builder had fitted a cheap timber door, which was never going to cope with that exposure.

They called and spoke to Mark. After asking a few questions about the porch, he recommended an aluminium door rather than another timber one, because of the sun exposure and the lack of cover. We arranged an installer with plenty of experience fitting Parkwood aluminium doors. The customer was thrilled with the result, and later came back to order another door for the back of the house.

The lesson isn't that timber is bad. It's that exposure should lead the decision. A deep, covered porch can look after a beautiful timber door for years. A bare west-facing wall needs something tougher.

This matters even more for wide openings. A double front door, a pivot door or a wide door with sidelights exposes more surface to the weather. More surface means more movement, more sealing and more to go wrong. So before you commit, ask yourself three questions:

1. Which way does the entry face?
2. How much cover does the porch give?
3. Does the door material suit that exposure?

It's also why we care so much about images. Now that we sell online, you need to see how a door will look before you buy. That's why we built DoorVision, which shows a door on your own home. Try a double door, then a single door with sidelights, and see which one fills your porch best.

Ready to plan your entrance?

If you're weighing up double doors, sidelights or a fanlight, we can help. Send us your opening dimensions and a photo of your porch via our contact page. If you're in Sydney, our professional door installation service can take care of the fit-out too.

FAQs

How wide does the opening need to be for double front doors?

It depends on the leaf width you choose, plus the frame. Measure the structural opening at the top, middle and bottom, and use the smallest reading. If the opening is too narrow for two full leaves, one door with a sidelight is often a good alternative.

Can I add sidelights to an existing front door?

Often yes, but it usually means a new frame and changes to the wall opening. Check with your builder or installer whether the structure above the opening can handle it. Your certifier can confirm any approvals needed.

Do sidelights and fanlights need safety glass?

Glass near doors is generally subject to safety glazing rules, and AS 1288 is the relevant standard. The exact requirements depend on the size and location of the glass. Confirm with your building certifier before you order.

How do you secure a double front door?

Use flush bolts on the passive leaf, a quality deadlock or multipoint lock on the active leaf and strong hinges. Check that the meeting stile and astragal suit the lock. Good installation matters as much as good hardware.

Is a pivot front door suitable for an exposed porch?

It can be, but pivot doors are harder to seal than hinged ones. They work best under a deep, covered entry. On an exposed west or south-west facade, think carefully about sealing, material and cover.

Can I fit a screen to double front doors?

Yes, in many cases. A 2-in-1 door pairs a door and a screen in one system. Check which leaf takes the screen and that it has room to swing clear of handles and porch furniture.

Do I need a fanlight on a heritage home?

You don't need one, but a fanlight can help a new door look right in a Victorian, Federation or Edwardian entry. It also brings in light without losing privacy at eye level. Check the head height first.